The first discovered carpet dates back to 1480 BC in the form of an Egyptian Fresco of handloom. Ever since, carpets have made their mark in most tastefully decorated hearths and homes. Carpets also provide an added measure of warmth and insulate against extreme heat or cold. And because a carpet is usually the foundation of decorating, covering a large quantity of the surface of our living spaces, it is an important consideration in the overall scheme of color and texture. It can provide simplicity, casualness, softness and livability; or it can provide pizzazz with vibrant color and heavier textures for making a decorating "statement." Using a carpet can be one of the easiest ways to personalize an environment - its color can be a neutral foundation "in the background," or it can be a vibrant focal point. Therefore, to find the right carpet lifestyle that fits your home, think about the way you live and the overall feel you want your home to have and you’ll invariably make the right choice.
It is rare these days to find a poor quality carpet.
The carpet industry has finally come of age with professionals ruling the roost. You can have Empire Carpets service your proud possession. Or you can drool over the innumerable designs and textures offered by Shaw Carpets – the largest carpet manufacturer in the world! And if you are a do-it-yourself guy, help yourself to carpet tiles or carpet squares to give your room that personal touch. But if ever you find yourself on cloud nine, look again – you may well be on that Mohawk Carpet!
Mike Yeager
Publisher
http://www.a1-interior-design-4u.com/
mjy610@hotmail.com
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Wednesday, February 7, 2007
8 Ways Carpet Cleaning Companies Take Advantage Of You
1. Many companies that charge by the square foot will charge you for the
space under the furniture, even if they don't move any. In other words, if
your room is 12' x 12', they will charge you for 144 sq. ft. If there happens
to be furniture in the room, you could be paying 10% to 30% more than
you should be!
2. Chances of getting a novice carpet cleaning technician are pretty good,
especially if you are dealing with a larger company. Novice technicians
have an improper wand stroke, meaning they leave areas of the carpet
that have either not been cleaned or that are too wet.
3. Improper knowledge of chemicals is very common, even with experienced
carpet cleaners. Many technicians will just try one chemical after another,
until they find something that works! This is very bad because the wrong
chemical will set the stain instead of removing it, resulting in permanent
damage of your carpet, in which you will foot the bill for when you have to
replace it!
4. One thing you should never do is leave a carpet cleaning technician in
your home by his/herself. This gives them every opportunity to take short
cuts and save time, so they can fit more jobs in per day, to get paid more
money. This will also be at your expense! Unless you have had a long
personal relationship with one particular cleaner, I wouldn't do it!
5. Never agree to get scotchguard or teflon protector applied to your
carpets, unless you see the original container with the seal still intact.
Many times this will merely be tap water mixed with very little protector.
Also, a pump up sprayer is not sufficient to apply the chemical. The
water pressure needs to be at least 45psi, which can only be achieved
if they have a spray attachment hooked to the same machine they are
cleaning your carpets with. The most common is a "hydroforce sprayer."
6. Many times you will get a quoted price for carpet cleaning, but when
the cleaners arrive, you will find that the price has suddenly changed due
to conditions that weren't expected. This is an attempt for them to take more
of your hard earned money than they should. Make sure you find out what
the service includes before you agree to the cleaning.
7. More times than not, carpet cleaners use pre-sprays that void the carpet's
warranty. Most will tell you that the chemicals they use are safe, but
really are not. They use what cleans the carpet faster and saves them time.
Of course, if they void the warranty using chemicals that have ph levels that
are too high, you will not be able to replace the carpet, unless you pay out
of pocket. This applies to nylon or polyester carpet, not olefin. (berber)
8. Dry cleaning companies that vacuum, then pre-spray, and then use a bonnet
with a buffer (floor machine) to clean the carpet, only cleans the surface. So how
do they get the rest of the chemicals out of the carpet after they are done? They
don't! It stays in the carpet and sometimes yellows or browns the carpet because
of the high ph level in the pre-spray. It will also dirty the carpet faster. Steam
cleaning is the most recommended form of carpet cleaning and is also the
most effective.
Bobby Walker Internet Marketer Dallas,Texas Websites:http://www. spot-cleaning.com & http://www. homebiz365.com Direct Response Website: http://www.homebiz365.com/pips.html Email: support@homebiz365.com & support@spot-cleaning.com Phone: (972) 571-6755 Favorite Affiliate Program: http://www. googlesystem.official.ws Hobbies: Singing, bowling, playing with kids & of course, the Internet.
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space under the furniture, even if they don't move any. In other words, if
your room is 12' x 12', they will charge you for 144 sq. ft. If there happens
to be furniture in the room, you could be paying 10% to 30% more than
you should be!
2. Chances of getting a novice carpet cleaning technician are pretty good,
especially if you are dealing with a larger company. Novice technicians
have an improper wand stroke, meaning they leave areas of the carpet
that have either not been cleaned or that are too wet.
3. Improper knowledge of chemicals is very common, even with experienced
carpet cleaners. Many technicians will just try one chemical after another,
until they find something that works! This is very bad because the wrong
chemical will set the stain instead of removing it, resulting in permanent
damage of your carpet, in which you will foot the bill for when you have to
replace it!
4. One thing you should never do is leave a carpet cleaning technician in
your home by his/herself. This gives them every opportunity to take short
cuts and save time, so they can fit more jobs in per day, to get paid more
money. This will also be at your expense! Unless you have had a long
personal relationship with one particular cleaner, I wouldn't do it!
5. Never agree to get scotchguard or teflon protector applied to your
carpets, unless you see the original container with the seal still intact.
Many times this will merely be tap water mixed with very little protector.
Also, a pump up sprayer is not sufficient to apply the chemical. The
water pressure needs to be at least 45psi, which can only be achieved
if they have a spray attachment hooked to the same machine they are
cleaning your carpets with. The most common is a "hydroforce sprayer."
6. Many times you will get a quoted price for carpet cleaning, but when
the cleaners arrive, you will find that the price has suddenly changed due
to conditions that weren't expected. This is an attempt for them to take more
of your hard earned money than they should. Make sure you find out what
the service includes before you agree to the cleaning.
7. More times than not, carpet cleaners use pre-sprays that void the carpet's
warranty. Most will tell you that the chemicals they use are safe, but
really are not. They use what cleans the carpet faster and saves them time.
Of course, if they void the warranty using chemicals that have ph levels that
are too high, you will not be able to replace the carpet, unless you pay out
of pocket. This applies to nylon or polyester carpet, not olefin. (berber)
8. Dry cleaning companies that vacuum, then pre-spray, and then use a bonnet
with a buffer (floor machine) to clean the carpet, only cleans the surface. So how
do they get the rest of the chemicals out of the carpet after they are done? They
don't! It stays in the carpet and sometimes yellows or browns the carpet because
of the high ph level in the pre-spray. It will also dirty the carpet faster. Steam
cleaning is the most recommended form of carpet cleaning and is also the
most effective.
Bobby Walker Internet Marketer Dallas,Texas Websites:http://www. spot-cleaning.com & http://www. homebiz365.com Direct Response Website: http://www.homebiz365.com/pips.html Email: support@homebiz365.com & support@spot-cleaning.com Phone: (972) 571-6755 Favorite Affiliate Program: http://www. googlesystem.official.ws Hobbies: Singing, bowling, playing with kids & of course, the Internet.
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8 Simple Tips to Keep Your Lawn Mower Running
1. If you have a non-electric mower which runs on petrol or gas have a look in the instruction manual to find out how to check and change the oil. Check the oil level often, add more oil when necessary and change it when it’s dirty.
2. Store the lawn mower in a shed or in some kind of protective environment so that it isn’t sitting in the elements.
3. Check your lawn mower to see if it contains instructions for sharpening your mower blade. Some lawn mowers do encourage you to sharpen the blade and others do not. If the manual does direct you to sharpen the blade then do so frequently.
4. The best time to mow your lawn is after any dew from the night before has had time to evaporate. This means that the late afternoon is usually better than the morning as the grass cuts better when it’s dry and the humidity has left the air. Also, wet grass can cause problems with the mower and generally just makes a bigger mess!
5. Try mowing your lawn in different directions each time you mow. This will help keep your lawn healthy and will reduce the likelihood of any patterns forming over multiple sessions.
6. Make sure you keep the fuel and oil that you pour into your mower as free of foreign objects as possible. No matter what your daughter insists, her bottle of moisturizer added to the gas tank will probably not make your lawn mower run any better.
7. Take the time to clean the grass off the underside of the mower from time to time. Make sure the mower is off before you attempt to clean the underside. Make sure if you are going anywhere near the blade you disconnect the spark plug wire first.
8. Clean the air intake for the mower. Combustion (petrol or gas) engines need some type of air intake to run correctly and if the air intake on your mower is clogged with grass then the mower won’t run at peak efficiency.
About the Author
Lawn Domain offers free information, articles and tips on how to keep your lawns, mowers and tractors in tip top condition. Find out more at http://www.lawndomain.com
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2. Store the lawn mower in a shed or in some kind of protective environment so that it isn’t sitting in the elements.
3. Check your lawn mower to see if it contains instructions for sharpening your mower blade. Some lawn mowers do encourage you to sharpen the blade and others do not. If the manual does direct you to sharpen the blade then do so frequently.
4. The best time to mow your lawn is after any dew from the night before has had time to evaporate. This means that the late afternoon is usually better than the morning as the grass cuts better when it’s dry and the humidity has left the air. Also, wet grass can cause problems with the mower and generally just makes a bigger mess!
5. Try mowing your lawn in different directions each time you mow. This will help keep your lawn healthy and will reduce the likelihood of any patterns forming over multiple sessions.
6. Make sure you keep the fuel and oil that you pour into your mower as free of foreign objects as possible. No matter what your daughter insists, her bottle of moisturizer added to the gas tank will probably not make your lawn mower run any better.
7. Take the time to clean the grass off the underside of the mower from time to time. Make sure the mower is off before you attempt to clean the underside. Make sure if you are going anywhere near the blade you disconnect the spark plug wire first.
8. Clean the air intake for the mower. Combustion (petrol or gas) engines need some type of air intake to run correctly and if the air intake on your mower is clogged with grass then the mower won’t run at peak efficiency.
About the Author
Lawn Domain offers free information, articles and tips on how to keep your lawns, mowers and tractors in tip top condition. Find out more at http://www.lawndomain.com
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8 Lawn Care Tips for Your Garden
I'll show you 8 simple steps how you can follow extremely simple steps and procedures to maintain a spectacular landscape beauty. Here goes.
Get to know your grass.
Grass grows at their optimum growth rate at the first 6 weeks of spring. Don't abandon them without proper water, fertilization and mowing. Talking about fertilization, most of us should know that the best time to apply it is not during spring but the during the last fall. It is recommended that the best month to fertilize your lawn is in late May. The main reason why fertilizing during spring is not such a good idea due to the fact that the occurrence of top growth stimulated by the fertilization combined with the rain will create thin skinned grass which will be highly vulnerable to disease.
Know your mowing timetable.
Before you cut your grass for the first time in the spring, try changing the height of cut on your mower blade so that the grass is cut at 3", giving your grass a nice cut from a present 4 inch tall. You don't want to overcut your grass as the major food source lies in the tip and removing it simply means more food will be used to grow new tips and less food for the root.
Get a proper watering schedule.
It's pretty normal to see gardeners to rely solely on the rain for the constant water supply. But it's also not such a bad idea to turn on the sprinkler to provide sufficient water supply to your grass. Most lawns will benefit from an inch to and inch and a half of water every 7 to 10 days. You should also take into consideration of determining your watering routines from other factors such as soil variations, weather conditions and type of grasses.
Maintain your mower blade.
Trimming your grass with a blunt and unmanaged blade will cause massive water loss and makes your grass more vulnerable to diseases. Most likely, you'll end up with brown looking lawn instead of fresh greeny ones. Always try to set a fix schedule to sharpen your mowing blade from time to time.
Applying lawn care products.
Do not panic when you see weeds start growing at your lawn. Try to identify what weeds are growing and learn what harm they will inflict on your current healthy lawn. Most weeds will appear depending on different situations which stimulates its appearance and growth. The most common weed you should pay attention to is the crabgrass, which is very well known as an "annual-weed". It generally reappears every year if your lawn has a clear history of crabgrass.
Pest Control.
Control, prevent and try to reduce any pest problem you currently have. The best idea to go with is to have a multiple variety of resistant plants. A proper plant selection and placement will also help greatly. Biological, mechanical or even pesticide solutions should compliment any of your pest controlling tasks. But do bare in mind that pesticides are frequently used only as a last resort, due to its toxic nature. Lastly but not least, a good aftercare of your grass is probably the best pest control you can ever have.
Get to know your soil pH.
Try to get a few patches of dry soil from different areas of your soil and get them to go through a soil test to determine the level of pH. Most local garden centers will provide such services. It is recommended that you ascertain the type of plant you wish to plant on the collected samples of soil because certain plants will grow better at certain pH levels.
Get some renovation done.
It is funny why so many people tend to get most of their gardening routines done during the spring. Besides fertilizing your lawn, renovating your lawn during spring is not such a good idea. Simply put, removing or disturbing lawn areas during spring will encourage weeds to appear on these newly empty patches you create. As you may have guessed, the best time for reseeding and replanting activities is during late summer and early fall when less weed competition.
About the Author
Provided by the Websition Article Team where you will find free web content for you to use on your website, newsletter, or ezine, all with royalty-free reprint rights. http://www.websition.com
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Get to know your grass.
Grass grows at their optimum growth rate at the first 6 weeks of spring. Don't abandon them without proper water, fertilization and mowing. Talking about fertilization, most of us should know that the best time to apply it is not during spring but the during the last fall. It is recommended that the best month to fertilize your lawn is in late May. The main reason why fertilizing during spring is not such a good idea due to the fact that the occurrence of top growth stimulated by the fertilization combined with the rain will create thin skinned grass which will be highly vulnerable to disease.
Know your mowing timetable.
Before you cut your grass for the first time in the spring, try changing the height of cut on your mower blade so that the grass is cut at 3", giving your grass a nice cut from a present 4 inch tall. You don't want to overcut your grass as the major food source lies in the tip and removing it simply means more food will be used to grow new tips and less food for the root.
Get a proper watering schedule.
It's pretty normal to see gardeners to rely solely on the rain for the constant water supply. But it's also not such a bad idea to turn on the sprinkler to provide sufficient water supply to your grass. Most lawns will benefit from an inch to and inch and a half of water every 7 to 10 days. You should also take into consideration of determining your watering routines from other factors such as soil variations, weather conditions and type of grasses.
Maintain your mower blade.
Trimming your grass with a blunt and unmanaged blade will cause massive water loss and makes your grass more vulnerable to diseases. Most likely, you'll end up with brown looking lawn instead of fresh greeny ones. Always try to set a fix schedule to sharpen your mowing blade from time to time.
Applying lawn care products.
Do not panic when you see weeds start growing at your lawn. Try to identify what weeds are growing and learn what harm they will inflict on your current healthy lawn. Most weeds will appear depending on different situations which stimulates its appearance and growth. The most common weed you should pay attention to is the crabgrass, which is very well known as an "annual-weed". It generally reappears every year if your lawn has a clear history of crabgrass.
Pest Control.
Control, prevent and try to reduce any pest problem you currently have. The best idea to go with is to have a multiple variety of resistant plants. A proper plant selection and placement will also help greatly. Biological, mechanical or even pesticide solutions should compliment any of your pest controlling tasks. But do bare in mind that pesticides are frequently used only as a last resort, due to its toxic nature. Lastly but not least, a good aftercare of your grass is probably the best pest control you can ever have.
Get to know your soil pH.
Try to get a few patches of dry soil from different areas of your soil and get them to go through a soil test to determine the level of pH. Most local garden centers will provide such services. It is recommended that you ascertain the type of plant you wish to plant on the collected samples of soil because certain plants will grow better at certain pH levels.
Get some renovation done.
It is funny why so many people tend to get most of their gardening routines done during the spring. Besides fertilizing your lawn, renovating your lawn during spring is not such a good idea. Simply put, removing or disturbing lawn areas during spring will encourage weeds to appear on these newly empty patches you create. As you may have guessed, the best time for reseeding and replanting activities is during late summer and early fall when less weed competition.
About the Author
Provided by the Websition Article Team where you will find free web content for you to use on your website, newsletter, or ezine, all with royalty-free reprint rights. http://www.websition.com
Get Free Content at ContentMart.com
8 Easy Steps to Find Your Perfect Toilet
Maybe you’re building a house, or you’re remodeling. If you’re like most folks, the toilet probably does not rate very high on your list of priorities. Still, the toilet is a key piece of a comfortable, modern, well-functioning home. Following a few straightforward steps can help you find a toilet that is right for you, both functionally and aesthetically. Remember, alltoilets are not built the same!
Step by step now, let’s examine:
1. The shape of the toilet bowl: The main choices here are an elongated bowl and a round front bowl. The round front tends to be two inches shorter, and works well for smaller spaces. The larger elongated front is more comfortable and sanitary, since there is less drip on the toilet.
2. The toilet size: There are lots of choices, with different lengths, widths and heights. Make sure you measure the space available for the toilet to ensure a comfortable fit. You also need to consider the rough-in space, which is how far the centerof the toilet bowl is from the finished wall, since this limits the size of the toilet.
3. The size of the toilet trapway: The trap way is that part of the toilet that through which the water and waste exit. The minimum standard allows waste with a diameter of 1 ฝ inches to pass through. You may want to consider looking at a larger trapway to minimize clogging problems.
4. The flushing system: In the US, by law all toilets must have a 1.6 gallon tank to conserve water. However, you do still have some choices.
• In gravity fed toilets, the weight of the water from the tank pushes the waste through an S shaped trap way, as the siphon that is created empties the bowl.
• With pressure assisted toilets, air in the tank is compressed as it fills with water. When flushing, the pressurized air pushes the water more strongly into the bowl, resulting in a better flush. Disadvantages, though, include greater noise, expense and difficulty of repairing.
5. One or two piece toilets: Two piece toilets are more common and inexpensively priced, and have a separate tank and bowl which are connected when the toilet is installed. One piece toilets have 5 or six parts that are seamlessly connected into one piece. They tend to more stylish, more expensive, easier to clean, and smaller, making them ideal for smaller spaces.
6. Maintenance features: Some toilets have features designed to make it easier to take care of them. For instance, Toto, an innovative Japanese manufacturer, has SanaGloss, a ceramic glaze which prevents bacteria and mold buildup, making the toilet easy to clean. American Standard has its EasyClean feature. Kohler has an insulated liner for some of its toilet lines, preventing moisture build-up on the outside of the tank due to condensation.
7. Appearance: while a toilet needs to work well, it also needs to look good in your bathroom. Fortunately, today’s toilets come in a huge selection of colors and sizes. Bear mind, though, that choosing a color other than white can significantly add to the toilet’s price. One approach you may to consider is to choose a toilet that is part of a bathroom suite, thus ensuring that are the fixtures are in harmony.
8. Other features: High end toilets may come with heated seats, warm air drying systems and built-in bidets, such as the Toto Washlets. Kohler Comfort Height toilets have a higher seat, making sitting down and standing easier.
There, now you have 8 steps to finding the toilet that is right for you and your loved ones!
Be sure to visit our site for even more information.
About the author:
Lukas Rathswohl is the publisher of All About Toilets at http://www.all-about-toilets.com,your one-stop source for toilet information.
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Step by step now, let’s examine:
1. The shape of the toilet bowl: The main choices here are an elongated bowl and a round front bowl. The round front tends to be two inches shorter, and works well for smaller spaces. The larger elongated front is more comfortable and sanitary, since there is less drip on the toilet.
2. The toilet size: There are lots of choices, with different lengths, widths and heights. Make sure you measure the space available for the toilet to ensure a comfortable fit. You also need to consider the rough-in space, which is how far the centerof the toilet bowl is from the finished wall, since this limits the size of the toilet.
3. The size of the toilet trapway: The trap way is that part of the toilet that through which the water and waste exit. The minimum standard allows waste with a diameter of 1 ฝ inches to pass through. You may want to consider looking at a larger trapway to minimize clogging problems.
4. The flushing system: In the US, by law all toilets must have a 1.6 gallon tank to conserve water. However, you do still have some choices.
• In gravity fed toilets, the weight of the water from the tank pushes the waste through an S shaped trap way, as the siphon that is created empties the bowl.
• With pressure assisted toilets, air in the tank is compressed as it fills with water. When flushing, the pressurized air pushes the water more strongly into the bowl, resulting in a better flush. Disadvantages, though, include greater noise, expense and difficulty of repairing.
5. One or two piece toilets: Two piece toilets are more common and inexpensively priced, and have a separate tank and bowl which are connected when the toilet is installed. One piece toilets have 5 or six parts that are seamlessly connected into one piece. They tend to more stylish, more expensive, easier to clean, and smaller, making them ideal for smaller spaces.
6. Maintenance features: Some toilets have features designed to make it easier to take care of them. For instance, Toto, an innovative Japanese manufacturer, has SanaGloss, a ceramic glaze which prevents bacteria and mold buildup, making the toilet easy to clean. American Standard has its EasyClean feature. Kohler has an insulated liner for some of its toilet lines, preventing moisture build-up on the outside of the tank due to condensation.
7. Appearance: while a toilet needs to work well, it also needs to look good in your bathroom. Fortunately, today’s toilets come in a huge selection of colors and sizes. Bear mind, though, that choosing a color other than white can significantly add to the toilet’s price. One approach you may to consider is to choose a toilet that is part of a bathroom suite, thus ensuring that are the fixtures are in harmony.
8. Other features: High end toilets may come with heated seats, warm air drying systems and built-in bidets, such as the Toto Washlets. Kohler Comfort Height toilets have a higher seat, making sitting down and standing easier.
There, now you have 8 steps to finding the toilet that is right for you and your loved ones!
Be sure to visit our site for even more information.
About the author:
Lukas Rathswohl is the publisher of All About Toilets at http://www.all-about-toilets.com,your one-stop source for toilet information.
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7 Factors Needed For A Compost Pile
Compost, made from decomposed grass clippings, leaves, twigs, and branches, becomes a dark, crumbly mixture of organic matter.
Learn how composting works. Even a newbie to composting can make good quality compost. It can be compared to cooking as art or part science. The following 7 factors will help you master the art of composting.
1. Materials
After a time anything that was once alive will naturally decompose. But, not all organic items should be composted for the home. To prepare compost, organic material, microorganisms, air, water, and a small amount of nitrogen are needed.
These items are safe to compost at home:
* grass clippings
* trimmings from hedges
* vegetable scraps
* leaves
* potting soil that has grown old
* twigs
* coffee filters with coffee grounds
* tea bags
* weeds that have not went to seed
* plant stalks
These items are Not safe to compost at home:
* weeds that have went to seed
* dead animals
* pet feces
* bread and grains
* meat
* grease
* cooking oil
* oily foods
*diseased plants
2. What To Do To Make It Work
There are small forms of plant and animal life which break down the organic material. This life is called microorganisms. From a minute amount of garden soil or manure comes plenty of microorganisms.
Nitrogen, air, and water will provide a favorable environment for the microorganisms to make the compost. Air circulation and water will keep the microorganisms healthy and working. The nitrogen feeds the tiny organisms. You may have to add a small amount of nitrogen to the pile.
Putting on too much nitrogen can kill microbes and too much water causes insufficient air in the pile. You just cannot add too much air.
3. Beneficial Microorganisms
Bacteria are the most effective compost makers in your compost pile. They are the first to break down plant tissue. Then comes the fungi and protozoans to help with the process. The arthropodes, like centipedes, beetles, millipedes and worms, bring in the finishing touches to complete the composting.
4. Smaller is Better
The materials will break down faster if the microorganisms have more surface area to eat. Chopping your garden materials with a chipper, shredder, or lawnmower will help them decompose faster.
5. Size of The Pile
The activity of millions of microorganisms generates heat in the compost pile but a minimum size 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot is needed for a hot, fast composting pile. Piles that are any larger may hamper the air supply needed in the pile for the microorganisms.
6. Moisture and Aeration
If you can imagine a wet squeezed out sponge with its many air pockets, then this would be the ideal enviroment for the microorganisms in the pile to function at their best. Pay attention while your pile is composting, to the amount of rain or a drought you may have. Water in a drought and maybe turn the pile in a lot of rainy days. The extremes of these two may upset the balance of the pile. The use of a pitchfork would come in handy at this time.
7. Temperature and Time
Keep your pile between 110F and 160F and the beneficial bacteria will love it. Not too cool nor too hot. The temperature will rise over several days if you keep a good ratio of carbon and nitrogen, maintain lots of surface area within a large volume of material, and maintain adequate moisture and aeration.
-Importance of Compost-
+ Compost has nutrients, but it is not a complete fertilizer.
+ Compost provides nutrients in the soil until plants need to use them.
+ It loosens and aerates clay soils
+ Retains water in sandy soils.
-Using the Compost-
+ A soil amendment, mix 2 to 5 inches of compost into gardens each year before planting.
+ A potting mixture, add one part compost to two parts potting soil.
+ Make your own potting mixture by using equal parts of compost and sand or perlite.
+ A mulch, prodcast 2 to 4 inches of compost around annual flowers and vegetables, and up to 5 inches around your trees and shrubs.
+ A top dressing, mix finely sifted compost with sand and sprinkle evenly over lawns.
The final thing I would suggest once you have mastered the art of composting is to look very seriously at making your very own aerated compost tea. This elixir will give you results that are hard to believe.
About the Author: James Ellison makes it easy for you to understand making a compost pile correctly. If you need to know more about organic gardening visit: http://www.basic-info-4-organic-fertilizers.com
Source: www.isnare.com
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Learn how composting works. Even a newbie to composting can make good quality compost. It can be compared to cooking as art or part science. The following 7 factors will help you master the art of composting.
1. Materials
After a time anything that was once alive will naturally decompose. But, not all organic items should be composted for the home. To prepare compost, organic material, microorganisms, air, water, and a small amount of nitrogen are needed.
These items are safe to compost at home:
* grass clippings
* trimmings from hedges
* vegetable scraps
* leaves
* potting soil that has grown old
* twigs
* coffee filters with coffee grounds
* tea bags
* weeds that have not went to seed
* plant stalks
These items are Not safe to compost at home:
* weeds that have went to seed
* dead animals
* pet feces
* bread and grains
* meat
* grease
* cooking oil
* oily foods
*diseased plants
2. What To Do To Make It Work
There are small forms of plant and animal life which break down the organic material. This life is called microorganisms. From a minute amount of garden soil or manure comes plenty of microorganisms.
Nitrogen, air, and water will provide a favorable environment for the microorganisms to make the compost. Air circulation and water will keep the microorganisms healthy and working. The nitrogen feeds the tiny organisms. You may have to add a small amount of nitrogen to the pile.
Putting on too much nitrogen can kill microbes and too much water causes insufficient air in the pile. You just cannot add too much air.
3. Beneficial Microorganisms
Bacteria are the most effective compost makers in your compost pile. They are the first to break down plant tissue. Then comes the fungi and protozoans to help with the process. The arthropodes, like centipedes, beetles, millipedes and worms, bring in the finishing touches to complete the composting.
4. Smaller is Better
The materials will break down faster if the microorganisms have more surface area to eat. Chopping your garden materials with a chipper, shredder, or lawnmower will help them decompose faster.
5. Size of The Pile
The activity of millions of microorganisms generates heat in the compost pile but a minimum size 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot is needed for a hot, fast composting pile. Piles that are any larger may hamper the air supply needed in the pile for the microorganisms.
6. Moisture and Aeration
If you can imagine a wet squeezed out sponge with its many air pockets, then this would be the ideal enviroment for the microorganisms in the pile to function at their best. Pay attention while your pile is composting, to the amount of rain or a drought you may have. Water in a drought and maybe turn the pile in a lot of rainy days. The extremes of these two may upset the balance of the pile. The use of a pitchfork would come in handy at this time.
7. Temperature and Time
Keep your pile between 110F and 160F and the beneficial bacteria will love it. Not too cool nor too hot. The temperature will rise over several days if you keep a good ratio of carbon and nitrogen, maintain lots of surface area within a large volume of material, and maintain adequate moisture and aeration.
-Importance of Compost-
+ Compost has nutrients, but it is not a complete fertilizer.
+ Compost provides nutrients in the soil until plants need to use them.
+ It loosens and aerates clay soils
+ Retains water in sandy soils.
-Using the Compost-
+ A soil amendment, mix 2 to 5 inches of compost into gardens each year before planting.
+ A potting mixture, add one part compost to two parts potting soil.
+ Make your own potting mixture by using equal parts of compost and sand or perlite.
+ A mulch, prodcast 2 to 4 inches of compost around annual flowers and vegetables, and up to 5 inches around your trees and shrubs.
+ A top dressing, mix finely sifted compost with sand and sprinkle evenly over lawns.
The final thing I would suggest once you have mastered the art of composting is to look very seriously at making your very own aerated compost tea. This elixir will give you results that are hard to believe.
About the Author: James Ellison makes it easy for you to understand making a compost pile correctly. If you need to know more about organic gardening visit: http://www.basic-info-4-organic-fertilizers.com
Source: www.isnare.com
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6 Ways of Creating Your Own Composting Machine
Composting as everybody knows is not a difficult, costly and time consuming process. Even the equipments and tools involved can be made available by just reusing any of your unused items stored in your backyard. If you're not into the build from scratch or crafting ideas, ready made composting items can be purchased quite easily and cheaply. I'll show you 6 different steps on how you can start composting, with the least fanciest equipment you can find.
Method 1 : Pile
The most simplistic idea ever. The only thing you'll need is an open area, measuring at least 3' x 3' x 3' for best results. There will be no supporting structure whatsoever to accommodate your composting activities within the defined area. Just throw in your composting materials and let the nature do its work.
Method 2 : Pallets
If you can find abandoned pallets, then you're in luck. But fear not, pallets can be easily purchased if you don't have any. Get at least a minimum of 4 pallets to form a 4 sided, open-top box. You may call it as a composting well if you want. The existing structure of the pallets which have empty spaces will allow a better air circulation throughout your composting process. Install a hinge on one of the pallets to create a door for easier addition of materials and for extraction purposes.It's a good idea to secure the 4 walls of the pallets together as well as to the ground for a better hold.
Method 3 : Concrete Cinder Blocks
The only drawback of this method is acquiring your own supply of cinder blocks, but this is probably a one time investment as this strong structure will get you going on for a long time. Start by stacking the blocks as high as you see fit. Air circulation is crucial, so stagger the blocks to allow proper circulation through the sides and back of the unit. To save excessive usage of the blocks, assemble a 3 sided composting unit. Provide a supporting wooden or iron posts to stabilize the overall unit structure. For a more organized structure, and provided if you have a lot of blocks to spare, you can create a considerably huge composting unit, divided into 3 areas of storage, for fresh, maturing and finished areas.
Method 4 : Wire (chicken wire or hardware cloth)
This method is relatively easy to implement. Get a galvanized chicken wire or hardware cloth approximately 10' in length and 1/2 to 1 inch wide. This measurement varies depending on the size of your unit you wish to build. You don't want to create a overly sized unit as the flimsiness of the wire structure might ruin your whole effort at certain point. Fashion the wire to form a cylinder or a well look alike structure. Get a couple of wooden or iron posts to hold the structure together. You can nail the chicken wire onto several posts on certain areas to give it a "backbone" before putting it up. Create a door with one of the ends so you'll have easy access to the contents.
Method 5 : Wood bin (single or multiple bin units)
When it comes to any conventional wood architecture, you obviously will need nails and the hammer. This method will require some carpentry skills and other tools that you may have to purchase. These units of design typically end up being larger than the other methods, so you might have to budget your available space should you want to go with this route. A permanent structure of this kind usually will require a slightly higher budget.
Method 6 : Ready-made composters
The simple buy it and use it straight away method. Nothing beats this, as you can find complete ready made composters at your local garden center or any online stores. Pre-fabricated units include tumblers, rotating barrels and boxes for the home gardener. Selection is huge, so you should have most of your options right in front of your eyes.
Happy composting!
About the Author
Provided by the Websition Article Team where you will find free gardening tips to use for your website, newsletter, or ezine, all with royalty-free reprint rights. http://www.websition.com
Get Free Content at ContentMart.com
Method 1 : Pile
The most simplistic idea ever. The only thing you'll need is an open area, measuring at least 3' x 3' x 3' for best results. There will be no supporting structure whatsoever to accommodate your composting activities within the defined area. Just throw in your composting materials and let the nature do its work.
Method 2 : Pallets
If you can find abandoned pallets, then you're in luck. But fear not, pallets can be easily purchased if you don't have any. Get at least a minimum of 4 pallets to form a 4 sided, open-top box. You may call it as a composting well if you want. The existing structure of the pallets which have empty spaces will allow a better air circulation throughout your composting process. Install a hinge on one of the pallets to create a door for easier addition of materials and for extraction purposes.It's a good idea to secure the 4 walls of the pallets together as well as to the ground for a better hold.
Method 3 : Concrete Cinder Blocks
The only drawback of this method is acquiring your own supply of cinder blocks, but this is probably a one time investment as this strong structure will get you going on for a long time. Start by stacking the blocks as high as you see fit. Air circulation is crucial, so stagger the blocks to allow proper circulation through the sides and back of the unit. To save excessive usage of the blocks, assemble a 3 sided composting unit. Provide a supporting wooden or iron posts to stabilize the overall unit structure. For a more organized structure, and provided if you have a lot of blocks to spare, you can create a considerably huge composting unit, divided into 3 areas of storage, for fresh, maturing and finished areas.
Method 4 : Wire (chicken wire or hardware cloth)
This method is relatively easy to implement. Get a galvanized chicken wire or hardware cloth approximately 10' in length and 1/2 to 1 inch wide. This measurement varies depending on the size of your unit you wish to build. You don't want to create a overly sized unit as the flimsiness of the wire structure might ruin your whole effort at certain point. Fashion the wire to form a cylinder or a well look alike structure. Get a couple of wooden or iron posts to hold the structure together. You can nail the chicken wire onto several posts on certain areas to give it a "backbone" before putting it up. Create a door with one of the ends so you'll have easy access to the contents.
Method 5 : Wood bin (single or multiple bin units)
When it comes to any conventional wood architecture, you obviously will need nails and the hammer. This method will require some carpentry skills and other tools that you may have to purchase. These units of design typically end up being larger than the other methods, so you might have to budget your available space should you want to go with this route. A permanent structure of this kind usually will require a slightly higher budget.
Method 6 : Ready-made composters
The simple buy it and use it straight away method. Nothing beats this, as you can find complete ready made composters at your local garden center or any online stores. Pre-fabricated units include tumblers, rotating barrels and boxes for the home gardener. Selection is huge, so you should have most of your options right in front of your eyes.
Happy composting!
About the Author
Provided by the Websition Article Team where you will find free gardening tips to use for your website, newsletter, or ezine, all with royalty-free reprint rights. http://www.websition.com
Get Free Content at ContentMart.com
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